BTN News: The history of lesbian fashion is as diverse and complex as the community it represents. From the rebellious flapper styles of the 1920s to the modern embrace of androgynous and utilitarian aesthetics, lesbian fashion has continually evolved, serving as both a means of expression and a tool for visibility. Eleanor Medhurst’s new book, Unsuitable: A History of Lesbian Fashion, dives deep into this journey, tracing how clothing choices have reflected, resisted, and redefined societal norms. As we look back at the trailblazers like Radclyffe Hall and Kristen Stewart, we see that lesbian fashion has been less about adhering to trends and more about forging a unique identity.
Breaking Free from Tradition: The 1920s to 1940s
In the early 20th century, lesbian fashion began to break away from traditional norms. The 1920s, a decade marked by change, saw women like Dora Stroeva, a cabaret singer known for her short, slicked-back hair and wide-shouldered jackets, challenging societal expectations. Under the leadership of Madge Garland and Dorothy Todd, Vogue embraced these bold new styles, featuring writings from Virginia Woolf and Gertrude Stein and showcasing women in Chanel creations alongside more masculine attire.
However, this era of experimentation was not without its challenges. In 1928, both Garland and Todd were dismissed by Condé Nast for not aligning with the magazine’s image. That same year, the release of The Well of Loneliness by Radclyffe Hall, now considered the first openly lesbian novel, caused a scandal, and Hall herself became a controversial figure, her masculine style criticized and celebrated in equal measure.
Lesbian Style in the Shadows: Mid-20th Century
During the 1940s, lesbian fashion took on new forms. Many women who embraced their identity wore a mix of traditionally masculine and feminine attire, navigating a delicate balance in a society that forced them to remain hidden. Some found solace in the underground clubs of Paris, Berlin, and Harlem, where they could freely express themselves, whether by donning men’s suits or by feminizing their looks in a deliberate blend of styles. This era also saw the emergence of the “butch-femme” dynamic, a visual reflection of gender roles, often influenced by socio-economic conditions, where butch women found it harder to sustain professional careers due to societal bias against their appearance.
Revolution and Rejection: The 1960s and 1970s
The Second Wave of feminism in the 1960s and 1970s brought about a new perspective on lesbian fashion. Rejecting the beauty standards dictated by a male-dominated society, many women adopted what became known as “antifashion.” This new aesthetic—characterized by military boots, jeans, short hair, and a lack of makeup or bras—was less about adhering to a masculine ideal and more about achieving an androgynous appearance. The goal, as Medhurst notes, was to reach “ugliness,” rejecting the beauty norms that had long constrained them and freeing themselves from male judgment.
Mainstream Visibility and Media Influence: 1990s Onwards
By the 1990s, lesbian fashion was increasingly featured in mainstream media, though not always positively. The 1993 New York Magazine cover titled “Lesbian Chic” marked a moment of visibility but primarily spotlighted a narrow archetype: white, affluent, professionally successful lesbians in perfectly tailored suits. This portrayal continued into the early 2000s, with shows like The L Word presenting an even more curated, glossy version of lesbian life far removed from many women’s realities. Despite these limitations, this period marked a shift toward broader recognition and visibility.
A Modern Narrative: Lesbian Fashion Today
Fast forward to today, and lesbian fashion is undergoing another transformation. Celebrities like Kristen Stewart effortlessly mix military jackets with lingerie, transcending binary clothing norms. In a 2024 interview, Stewart highlighted the evolution of lesbian style, suggesting that “khakis and denim shirts” are an outdated stereotype. Social media has also democratized visibility, with TikTok’s #LesbianStyle hashtag amassing over 40 million posts, showcasing a wide array of expressions that defy a single narrative.
A Diverse Aesthetic: Beyond Stereotypes
According to Eleanor Medhurst, the diversity seen in lesbian fashion today reflects a departure from the old paradigms. “There isn’t—and never has been—a single lesbian style,” she writes. Her new book, Unsuitable: A History of Lesbian Fashion, traces this dynamic evolution from the 17th century to the present, highlighting how fashion has been used to blend in, stand out, or communicate when words fall short. “The rise in visibility demonstrates a complex relationship with aesthetics that is constantly evolving,” she explains, emphasizing that today’s fashion landscape is more inclusive, accommodating diverse identities and expressions.
Conclusion: Fashion as Identity, Not a Trend
While lesbian fashion has historically been about defiance and identity, its recent mainstream acceptance risks turning it into just another marketable trend. As the New York Times recently suggested, we may be entering the “happy era of lesbian fashion.” However, Medhurst cautions that we must avoid simplifying or commodifying what has been, for many, a profound expression of self. “Fashion has always been opportunistic,” she argues, “but true style comes from the choices made by the community itself.”
